Caribbean
The Sun Herald
Sunday December 15, 1991
THE minister raised his hands to heaven, peered down at the assembled congregation and smiled. "We must praise the Lord. We must praise Him for everything that He brings us, for His bountiful gifts. We must give thanks every day of our lives, for we have much to be thankful for."
Heads nodded in agreement. The ceiling fans whirred lazily, a gentle breeze stirred a cascade of scarlet bougainvillea pouring in through the open windows, and the turquoise sea lapped gently outside, just beyond the church gate.
For a few moments, there was silence. It was as though everything around us-the fans, the bougainvillea, the sea, the rustling palm trees-was joining in a silent prayer of thanksgiving.
"Praise the Lord," said the minister, "and go in peace." The choir broke into the first verse of All Things Bright and Beautiful and Sunday service at Cane Garden Bay Methodist Church, Tortola, drew to a close.
For an hour or so, tucked away in a tiny corner of the British Virgin Islands, the real Caribbean showed its exquisite face.
This was the first port of call on a seven-day Caribbean cruise. Cunard Countess had slipped into Road Town early in the morning and hundreds of passengers scampered off, mostly in search of a beach.
We headed the same way but as we approached Cane Garden Bay, we spotted villagers-swathed in their Sunday best and sheltering from the sun beneath elegant broad-brimmed hats-heading down the road.
We followed and watched as they entered a tiny whitewashed chapel down by the beach. The tourists sunning themselves on the sand seemed oblivious to this simple yet eye-catching procession.
Uninvited, we slipped in behind and sat at the back of the chapel. And before long we, too, were praising God for His bountiful gifts.
Away from the main tourist centres, the people of these lovely islands live life at a different pace. They don't covet Western ways or wants. Indeed many are disturbingly poor by our standards.
And yet, despite the unbridled wealth which pours from the cruise ships daily across their path, they seem content with their lot, simple though it may be. This is the real face of the Caribbean-and you can't resist its charms.
When a broad-beamed black mama, with a mop of Rastafarian curls, a dazzling smile and a suitcase full of tacky trinkets, accosts you on the beach with the words: "Rise up from de sand, sweetie, and take a look at me wares", I defy you to carry on sunbaking.
With limited time and lots to see, a cruise is by far the best way to explore the Caribbean-and Cunard Countess is an excellent choice.
Her seven-day cruise itinerary takes in a different island every day, cruising leisurely between ports at night. By day, most people head ashore for excursions, sightseeing or shopping, returning in the afternoon for cocktails, dinner and departure to the next island.
The Countess is a gem, a 15-year-old floating hotel with all the atmosphere of a grand dame of the seas. Forget the mega-liners which now ply the Caribbean waters looking like a cross between a cargo ship and a space station.
The Countess is all sleek lines, polished wood decks and good old-fashioned service for which Cunard is renowned.
The ship carries a maximum 750 passengers, less than half of some of its rivals, so the 350 staff can do a much better job of looking after its precious cargo. As with most luxury cruise liners, life on board the Countess revolves around the dining room.
All meals are taken in two sittings, the early one ending in time for the shows, the later one allowing plenty of time for pre-dinner cocktails.
The meals are nothing short of sumptuous. If you haven't porked out on breakfast or buffet lunch, then dinner will almost certainly finish you off. Menus run to five or six courses with the idea that you spend a leisurely hour or two indulging in good food, fine wine and excellent company.
Then it's off to a show, the indoor/outdoor disco or cabaret bar and casino where you can while away the night hours until dawn starts to break over the horizon.
Believe me, standing on deck with a full moon and a blanket of shimmering stars reflected in the jet black waters is one of life's more pleasurable moments.
The dress code varies from smart casual to formal, when lounge or dinner suit is required for a couple of gala dinners. While the general atmosphere veers towards the relaxed and casual, most passengers dress up to make an occasion of the dinners.
With the fares at a very reasonable level, the ship is attracting a much broader clientele, predominantly from Britain and Europe. On-board daytime activities run the gamut from bridge sessions to bingo.
There's also a fitness centre, a cinema screening new release movies and the obligatory talent/fancy dress night. Brenda from Norwich was warbling From a Distance when we walked in. We quickly agreed that Brenda was best heard from a distance so we headed for the Starlight Lounge for a cleansing ale.
The crew-from the thoroughly affable captain, Roland Hasell, down to the cabin stewards-were courteous and attentive and daily passenger briefings on each new island and shopping opportunities meant you barely had to think all week.
While the Countess could amuse you all day, you should spend your daylight hours on shore. Shop by all means but make an effort to explore beyond the glitzy designed-for-cruisers stores.
While great for bargains, they are no more Caribbean than sushi is Australian. Take off in search of hidden gems like Cane Garden Bay Methodist Church and you, too, will be praising the Lord for His bountiful gifts.
TORTOLA
THE largest of the British Virgin Islands, Tortola is arguably the prettiest in the Caribbean.
From the historic Pusser's Company Store and Pub to the many delightful beaches scattered around the island, Tortola attracts tourists back year after year.
Beaches like Cane Garden Bay are what you see in the glossy holiday brochures but you don't really believe they exist.
Well, they do - and a day spent lazing on the crescent-shaped slivers of sand will restore the most jaded spirit. The views of other islands from various hillside locations on Tortola are sensational.
Don't miss Pusser's Company Store and Pub, an old-world trading house where you can almost smell the salty old seadogs and buccaneers who once supped large quantities of ale there. Great for Caribbean souvenir shopping.
ANTIGUA
WHAT, for me, held the most promise, actually turned out to be the biggest disappointment. I'd heard many tales of Antigua's exquisite beaches, lapped by the warmest of turquoise waters.
What I found was a modern made-for-cruisers shopping centre backed by an uninteresting town and even less enticing countryside.
Behind the glossy facade of the Heritage Quay shopping complex (which is excellent), the capital of St John's had the run-down air of a colonial backwater.
We headed for Buccaneer Cove which turned out to be a somewhat scrappy string of beaches and glumly headed back to the ship.
Other cruisers said they enjoyed the historic English Harbour, once home to Nelson's fleet, but you may have to search a little further to find Antigua's glamour spots.
MARTINIQUE
INCLEMENT weather played a hand in what could have been a very pleasant day in the exotic French West Indies.
Seasonal rain forced the cancellation of the ship's Calypso tour, a three-hour scenic catamaran cruise around the island.
Had the sun shone, we'd have cruised, snorkelled, sunbaked, pigged out on tropical delights and swigged our way through bottomless barrels of rum punch, while swaying to the calypso rhythm.
Instead, we headed into the capital Fort-de-France, peered over a few crumbling French monuments and hopped on a ferry boat across the harbour to a nearby beach, sprinkled with half-naked, pale French bods.
There are interesting tours around the island, complete with a vast brooding volcano, but it's best to pray for sun and cruise the Calypso.
BARBADOS
THERE are two certainties in Barbados-sun and cricket. You don't have to venture far to see a crush of creases from backyard cricket pitches, where decades of fantasy Tests have been won and lost, to the hallowed turf of Bridgetown's famous Kensington Oval.
Cricket is the lifeblood of the West Indies and nowhere more so than in Barbados, one of the Caribbean's more interesting and attractive islands.
After exploring Bridgetown, which boasts the original statue of Nelson(sculpted 27 years before the one in London's Trafalgar Square), we took off for a tour of Sam Lord's Castle, St John's Church, fine colonial plantation houses, gardens and beaches.
We lazed on Glitter Bay, one of the island's prettier bays, for a few hours to round off a very pleasant day's outing.
ST THOMAS
SO you think you're a committed shopper? Well, you ain't seen nothing until you've given your credit cards a thrashing in St Thomas.
You may well be begging the good saint for a heavenly release after a few hours eyeing up, haggling down and swanning off with a swag of bargains.
Of all the world's great duty-free ports, St Thomas must rank as the best with top-quality buys at sensational prices.
Gems, gold, silver, watches, china, shoes, clothes-the Countess's shopping guide lists no fewer than 35 recommended outlets guaranteed to set the adrenalin pumping. The range of goods is stunning.
The capital, Charlotte Amalie, with its delightful Danish-style buildings may catch your eye for a few moments but don't waste your time sightseeing. Go bag a bargain |
ISLAND LIFE
WHILE you may find it hard to leave the Countess, you should take every opportunity to explore the islands.
The ship generally docks early each day and doesn't depart until late afternoon, leaving hours for you to wander off, shop, meet the locals and take in the sights.
While the ship's tours are excellent, you don't have to be cosseted all day, every day. Many ports operate minibus tours (the more people, the cheaper the ride) and taxis usually offer tours, although the commentary is sometimes less than informative.
You need to look behind the islands' glossy cruise facade of shops to discover the real heart of the Caribbean. The prime cruise season is from now until May when the rainy season starts. As with all islands, the Caribbean only shines when the sun does - so choose your time carefully.
THE WAY TO GO
CUNARD, and its cruise partner American Airlines, are Caribbean experts. The Countess has been cruising those waters for years and many staff on board regard it as their favourite destination.
That means you're in good hands. They know the islands backwards and will not hesitate to point you in the right direction so you get the most out of your cruise.
And because it's such a popular destination, the prices have come tumbling down in recent years to meet the demand.
It doesn't make for a cheap holiday in itself because you have to travel long distances to get there but if you include a Caribbean cruise as part of a holiday to America or Europe (say, one week of a two or three-week holiday), the cost is surprisingly low.
Cunard operates two all-year-round Caribbean cruises, the same ship charting a different course on alternate weeks in and out of San Juan, Puerto Rico.
Both last eight days (seven nights). One calls at Tortola, Antigua, Martinique, Barbados and St Thomas; the other takes in St Maarten, Guadeloupe, Grenada, St Lucia, St Kitts and St Thomas.
The cruise cost starts from $855 per person (twin-share), which includes on-board accommodation, all meals and entertainment. The higher grade your cabin, of course, the higher the cost. The cost does not include drinks, laundry or shore tours (from around $30 each).
Full details are in Cunard's 1992 Cruise Guide. For a copy or reservations, contact (02) 956 7777, toll-free 008 029 956 or your travel agent.
For full details on American Airlines services and reservations, contact(02) 954 2777 or FlyAAway Holidays on (02) 956 6935. More Caribbean details, see page 126.
© 1991 The Sun Herald