Don't Be Upset If Gifts Are Cellared
Sydney Morning Herald
Thursday December 4, 1997
This is the final of six classes introducing you to the world of wine by The Northern Herald's guest wine writer KAREN MACALISTER-HOHNEN.
PROFESSIONAL wine people can assume that their Christmas stockings will be "wine-free" zones. It's a bit like being a chef - they never get invitations to dinner.
So, don't be afraid, wine and food are so subjective that gifts of these over Christmas have to be about making mistakes - that's how we learn!
If you bring wine as a gift (as opposed to taking a bottle when invited to dinner), do not take it for granted that it will be drunk while you are there.
If this is your objective, ensure that you spend a minimum of $45 on an aged wine and write on the card " . . . this is at its peak now and I look forward to sharing it with you!".
Otherwise, you might expect the gift to be scurried away to the cellar and presented again five or 10 years later (if you're still on speaking terms) having done its time under close supervision.
A special Christmas gift of wines ($150-200) sounds reasonable, so why not buy yourself or a friend something to cellar?
Wines are produced to slot into various purchase criteria from $10.99 (drink-now examples) to a $200 bottle of Grange (long-term cellaring - 50 years).
In between, there are hundreds of marvellous types and styles from which to choose.
Recommendations by independent wine writers in the major newspapers will give you a little more confidence about your purchase. Six bottles is a good amount to start with (12 are better), which means there is enough of the wine to check on its progress every couple of years.
My first cellar was an old outhouse, wedged into the foundations at the back of the house (too damp with extremes of temperature and filtered light through cracks in the door). The wine, which was drunk about five years later, showed slow deterioration and produced some exceptional surprises.
Next was a linen press in a darkish hallway. This was excellent - handy to the dining table, held at least 10 dozen, with constant temperatures (ideal is an annual constant of 15 degrees). I had great fun collecting for this cellar and I'm still reaping the benefits.
The third and current cellar is under the house on a sandstone foundation. It has good ventilation, is pitch black, has constant temperatures with about 5 degrees of fluctuation between summer and winter, and is dry. (Work on humidity levels of 70 - 75 per cent).
People who collect wine (and this can apply to most hobbies) can have just a trendy interest, be a conservative, speculative consumer or a passionate "buy all the accessories" fanatic. Establish these facts before you decide on how much to spend on the gift.
Here are some suggestions for 12 bottles for "short term cellaring" (3-4 years). These varieties benefit with a little age - it softens off the edges: 1997 Howard Park Riesling, 1996 Evans & Tate Two Vineyard Chardonnay, 1997 Delatite "Dead Man's Hill" Gewurztraminer, 1994 Tollana TR222 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1995 Coriole Sangiovese, 1995 Garry Crittenden "i" Dolcetto and 1995 Barwang Cabernet Sauvignon.
Now, for "long term cellaring" (8-10 years), you will be rewarded by spending from $19 a bottle upwards, with a few bargains along the way. Consider imported wines, which will provide interesting comparisons as you get to know and taste more of them (especially with food). Seek experienced advice as this is a minefield and cheap European wines could put you off for life.
My, very restrained, Christmas list would look a bit like this: 1991 Leo Buring Leonay Riesling, 1997 Petaluma Riesling, 1997 Brokenwood Semillon, 1993 Maurice O'Shea Shiraz, 1994 Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna (a bargain at $16.50), 1994 Taltarni Shiraz, 1991 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1991 Leasingham Sparkling Shiraz.
Cheers and merry Christmas.
© 1997 Sydney Morning Herald